Achieving supple, radiant skin

Beauty beyond the bar of soap

Moisturizer: While cleanse-exfoliate-moisturize is the basic skincare mantra, healthy, glowing skin requires more than a bar of soap and a dab of moisturizer. Regular treatments and supplements combined with a daily regimen of professionally recommended products will keep skin looking its best.

Connect and consult

In order to recommend the right products, skincare therapists must consult with their clients every time they meet, particularly during seasonal changes, says Holly Sherrard, education manager at the International Dermal Institute. If your client uses an oil-controlling moisturizer in the summer, she may need to switch to a hydrating moisturizer in the winter. Skin becomes dehydrated in winter and can lead to conditions such as sensitivity, redness, and breakouts.

Sherrard often gets calls from skincare therapists whose clients are having a reaction to a product and they don’t know why. When she asks the therapist what they learned during the consultation interview, they reply they didn’t do one.

“It’s so important to do a consultation every single time because you never know if a person’s on a new medication or if they’re going through a stressful period,” says Sherrard. These factors can influence what happens on the skin’s surface. If you’re treating a 20-year-old with the skin of a 40-year-old, you may want to ask about her lifestyle. Also, keep in mind a woman’s skin will change monthly due to hormonal fluctuations.

Why soap and water won’t do

If you rinse your plate after having a hearty Italian dish made with olive oil, you will notice a film left behind. Water is not enough to get the plate clean and skin works the same way, says Sherrard. Since skin is slightly acidic, the ideal cleanser is pH balanced. Bar soaps tend to be alkaline, so cleansing with soap can lead to dehydration. Sherrard recommends cleansing skin twice in the morning and twice in the evening. “Your first cleanse is actually removing the surface dirt, and the second cleanse cleans the skin,” she says. For the first wash, Sherrard suggests an oil-based cleanser to nourish and cleanse. An oil-based product will not make skin oily as long as the product is formulated with a plant-based oil, such as olive or kukui nut.

For the second wash, use a cleanser that targets a concern (acne, aging) or skin type (oily, dry). The customized cleanser includes ingredients that solve a problem the client wants to address. For example, a clay cleanser will help remove excess oil.

Regular exfoliation helps the skin’s natural enzymes function properly. “When the skin is exfoliating on a regular basis and desquamating properly, it’s more likely that the barrier function will be intact,” says Sherrard. “By exfoliating, you’re forcing the skin to bring new cells to the surface.”

After exfoliation, you may use a toner to soothe skin, reduce the size of pores, and remove excess makeup or dirt. However, a proper cleanser should do the latter. Moisturizers replenish and hydrate. In winter, treat dehydrated skin with serums and concentrates, which help repair the skin and maintain hydration as well as the lipid barrier.

Protect from “daylight” not “sun”

The phrase “sun protection” gives the impression sunscreen is only needed during the summer. “Year round we should be wearing a SPF of 15,” says Sherrard. Sunscreen should be reapplied every two hours.

Beauty for all seasons

For truly healthy skin, a skincare regimen should transform with the seasons and be tailored to the client’s skin concerns and goals. Connecting with the client at each visit will allow you to recommend the right products and treatments for the best results.

1) Target:

Swiss Line Cell Shock Total Resurface Overnight Cream
Soparc.ca

2) Hydrate:

Dermalogica Overnight Repair Serum
Dermalogica.com/ca/

3) Repair:

Biodroga Institut Repair + Cell Protection cream
Cudema.com

4) Support:

GliSODin Skin Nutrients Advanced Anti-Aging Formula
Glisodinskin.com

5) Protect:

G.M. Collin Mineral Sun Cream SPF 25
Gmcollin.com

by Julia Teeluck | Winter 2012